Vosne Romanee Cros Parantoux
“The 2008 Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux,” reports Rouget, “finished its malo at the beginning of February, the same time as the 2009!” For that reason, I tasted it still on its fine lees, having never been racked or sulfured. (“Not that I’m one of these ‘bio-’ low-sulfur people,” he hastened to add.) Lily-like, decadent floral perfume, cassis, framboise, holly berry, and mint hover spirituously over the glass. Vanilla and resin hints for the (100%) new wood mingle with liqueur-like black fruits as well as pungently invigorating red currant and dried cranberry. Here is the vibratory, interactive intensity and complexity one derives from the best young wines of its vintage, with chalk, stone, salt, and iodine all serving to set-off the wine’s candied yet acidulated fruit character. This should intrigue and delight for a dozen or more years.
(189, The Wine Advocate 29th Jun 2010)